Michelin and Zagat, I hope you will take note of this review, because Mr. Mario Oliver should have five stars, and everyone that finds themselves in Beverly Hills or Los Angeles should make their way to one or both of the Oliver Restaurants, at 9601 Wilshire Blvd. in BH or 1835 S. Sepulveda
Blvd in LA.
Mr. Oliver is one of those restaurateurs who continually reinvents himself. He and other investors started the Vertigo Club in the 80’s, and then Lynx. Both were notable, but Oliver is the piece de résistance: he has hit his stride with this reinvention.
I have never invited someone to dine at this restaurant who does not thank me profusely, and then become a customer. For the Beverly Hills location, Oliver started with the ambience of a white Zen/minimalist design. I would say it reminds me of a Moroccan cafe, except I have never been to Morocco, but I have seen Casablanca. It also reminds me of a restaurant on the Cote de Azure, with its breezy atmosphere, yet it still retains an air of formality; Mario doesn’t want diners coming in with their sweaty gym attire, as the restaurant is physically attached to the Sports Club BH. Circular in design, with a newly added patio fronting Wilshire Blvd., Oliver has a cordial and accommodating wait staff attired in tasteful, white tennis wear. The most notable magic, however, is the food and those very special Martinis. Mr. Oliver is not only a gourmand but also a connoisseur of wines, and his restaurant features a superb selection of both food and drink, so rest assured that you can put yourself in his hands in both realms.
I never thought I would be a restaurant groupie but here I am singing the praises of Oliver! Many thought he would fail because he is across the street from Mr. Chow and Barney’s, but au contraire! I have had people sit there for hours savoring the food and the congenial atmosphere, so let the martinis continue to flow at Oliver! Oh, did I forget to mention the bartender, Dylan, to die, and his drinks are not bad either.
And now on to Oliver in West Los Angeles…
The huge seemingly golden building touches the horizon of the western sky and takes up a whole block. Its neon sign proclaims Sports Club LA, but it is more than that, representing an entire lifestyle which is the envy of most residents of this planet. As we arrive at this magnificent edifice, we feel that we are among the power elite, with members arriving in their Ferraris, Bentleys, Rolls Royces, and maybe even a stray Mercedes or BMW. Where else can you valet part, exercise, socialize, close a deal, get a massage, enjoy the luxuries of a great locker room, have your hair styled, and cap the visit with a great meal at Oliver, which is inside the club? All you have to do is ask!